(12-12-2019, 12:44)CatalinH Wrote: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wH5sWvyoKhY&t=158s
 la minutul 2

(11-12-2019, 16:24)Laddu Wrote: Zona dintre linia shinogi si tais este CONCAVA la acest cutit cu "wide bevel" (ca la multe altele de altfel, in diverse grade de concavitate). De asta zgarieturile sunt mai pronuntate (accentuate) in zona liniei shinogi si imediat deasupra taisului. Zgarieturile produse intre ele, adica in zona de hollow grind, au fost facut de mazga creata pe piatra. Daca as fi tinut pietrele complet curate, atunci nu ar fi fost nicio zgarietura in aceasta zona de concavitate.

Quote:Broida, Jonathan Feb 12, 2019, 7:43 AM
to me, Joshua

so, the biggest issues are not coarse enough of a start and not anywhere near enough time.  Its a bit more hollow ground than i would normally expect, but the way it looks now is a function of not doing nearly enough work to thin the knife.  You also have some issues with not lifting up or rotating enough near the tips (not a huge amount... just a tiny bit).  With the two sides feeling different, remember that its a hand-forged and handmade knife.  This is not uncommon.

Quote: 
Broida, Jonathan
Feb 12, 2019, 10:11 PM
to me, Joshua

The adjustment for any kind of knife sharpening, with the exception of things that are perfectly flat in terms of edge profile, will require some kind of lifting up and rotating back towards the spine. The amount of this required for thinning is generally significantly less, but the adjustment still needs to occur. It's the only way to maintain a consistent with of the bevel or blade Road going from heel to tip.

In terms of whether you should then further, it really comes down to how you feel about the performance of the knife, aesthetics of the knife, etc. The shinogi line will move up as you do this, but I doubt that it will reach the logo unless you are applying significant pressure towards the shinogi line, which in turn will lower the angle that you are doing the thinning at. Also, as you continue to do this, the knife will end up getting thinner directly behind the edge, so at some point it will end up being too thin for your personal tastes. How is it performing for you now? I guess that's the smartest place to start. You can always do something about aesthetics without affecting performance in any significant way.

-Jon

Quote: Broida, Jonathan
Feb 16, 2019, 2:27 AM
to me, Joshua

So the short answer is yes, performance can be improved. Is he going to be a big improvement from this point? Probably not as much as the initial thinning would've done for you. If the aesthetic aspect does not bother you, some sandpaper will help make everything look nice and you can work this out over time. That would probably be the smartest way to maintain this knife without wasting steel unnecessarily.

Aside from that, it looked like you were indeed thinning correctly, and just hadn't done enough of it. In general, the goal should be to keep the angle as close to original as possible unless you find that that's not working well for you. If you want to make it thinner, you will apply more pressure towards the shinogi line, and if you want to make it thicker you will apply more pressure towards the edge. When you are doing this as a hamaguri edge, you should go through 2 to 3 stages of pressure placement. In the first part of the sharpening, your pressure should be right at the shinogi line as if you are pressing it slightly upwards. The second pressure should be at the edge as if you are pressing down against the stone and a little bit towards the edge. The angle change between these two areas of pressure should not be that significant, so it should still look like a relatively flat bevel. Lastly, you can apply pressure in the center of those two and try and blend everything together so that it looks nice. It seems that on your knife the bevel is particularly more hollow ground than I have seen on others, so just keep in mind that this will take some time. Aside from that, you seem to be on the right track. You just need to expect to spend a little bit more time.

Feel free to bug me with any other questions you come up with along the way.

-Jon

Quote: 
Broida, Jonathan
Feb 21, 2019, 12:46 AM
to me, Joshua

This actually looks like you did a lot better. It also appears that the knife was most significantly hollow ground. The 220 producing uniform scratches despite the hollow grind is not uncommon. 220 stones tend to be rather muddy, soft, and the abrasive is rather large. For that reason, they often fill in high and low spots most effectively, but can also, unfortunately, cover up things that you are trying to deal with, as it seems you have found out. with respect to the tip adjustment, lifting up and having to rotate toward the spine is pretty normal. If the same was required at the heel, that's likely indicative of a little bit of an over grind (nothing that I would consider to be a serious issue, but all the same something that's worth noting).

With respect to sharpening being really fast, that is both a function of it being white #2 and also being very thin. The thinner that the knives get, the less time it takes to sharpen them. Edge retention is actually not affected by this except to the extent that thinner knives may be damaged more easily which would diminish at retention. However, in terms of play degradation, I think you should be fine. How does it perform for you now?

-Jon

Quote:Broida, Jonathan
Feb 22, 2019, 8:06 PM
to me, Joshua

In a perfect world, you would do a little bit of thinning each time you sharpen, thus maintaining a consistent level of performance over time. The reality is that most people won't do that, and so they go through normal sharpening and do thinning periodically when they notice a significant decline in performance. It's up to you with respect to how you want to go about it next. Glad it's generally working out well for you though.

-Jon

(14-12-2019, 21:30)Laddu Wrote: Pai ce anume cauți?

(14-12-2019, 22:51)palado Wrote: Ce părere aveti despre acesta,
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01FZZUL30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.Wt9DbCXN2Y17
e potrivit pentru un începător ?

(15-12-2019, 10:06)Codered Wrote: Daca ai un cutit peste al carui tais poti sa tragi degetul atunci ai nevoie mai intai sa folosesti o piatra cu grit mai mic 600 800

(14-12-2019, 16:33)flipu2k Wrote: Recomandati un site pentru cutite japoneze cu livrare lejera in RO? As mai lua ceva acum ca tot vine craciunul 

(13-12-2019, 12:56)Laddu Wrote: VG10 e un otel foarte bun, mai ales daca e calit cum trebuie. 

As merge si eu pe sugestia lui renato, sa iei ceva cu posibilitate la indemana de retur. China are multe falsuri, cutitele nu fac exceptie.

(15-12-2019, 10:06)Codered Wrote:

(14-12-2019, 22:51)palado Wrote: Ce părere aveti despre acesta,
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01FZZUL30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.Wt9DbCXN2Y17
e potrivit pentru un începător ?

Cerax (produsa de Suehiro in japonia)o gasesti si pe cutite bushcraft. 

Codered;
...Din ce citesc aici vad ca se vorbeste doar despre cutite low level. Eu unul ...
[hr Wrote:...
Vg10 nu poti spune ca e un otel foarte bun. Este un otel inferior comparativ cu ...
Totodata nici un fierar respectabil din japonia nu mai foloseste vg10. Cele in vg10 sunt produse in serie in fabrici.
Daca tot vreti un cutit japonez luati ceva care sa merite

Quote:Dar cine spune ca "asta" e opera de arta si ca valoreaza atat...

(15-12-2019, 11:19)Codered Wrote: Vg10 nu poti spune ca e un otel foarte bun. Este un otel inferior comparativ cu cele carbon shirogami (alb) sau aogami (albastru) sau aogami super. Prin inferior ma refer la retentia taisului dar si la rapiditatea ascutirii.
Totodata nici un fierar respectabil din japonia nu mai foloseste vg10. Cele in vg10 sunt produse in serie in fabrici.
Daca tot vreti un cutit japonez luati ceva care sa merite

(15-12-2019, 21:19)Laddu Wrote:

(15-12-2019, 11:19)Codered Wrote: Vg10 nu poti spune ca e un otel foarte bun. Este un otel inferior comparativ cu cele carbon shirogami (alb) sau aogami (albastru) sau aogami super. Prin inferior ma refer la retentia taisului dar si la rapiditatea ascutirii.
Totodata nici un fierar respectabil din japonia nu mai foloseste vg10. Cele in vg10 sunt produse in serie in fabrici.
Daca tot vreti un cutit japonez luati ceva care sa merite

Nu stiu care e standardul tau pentru respectabil dar mai sunt japonezi care forjeaza VG-10. Destul de batrani.

(15-12-2019, 19:46)renatoa Wrote: Nu vad ieftinirea... 217 lei iese mai mult ca 40 Euro, si pachetul de pe amazon contine si ghidaj (existent si pe finetools, 35 lei), si suport bambus.

(29-12-2019, 15:54)vladdooo Wrote: Un set de cutite pt bucatarie, ce recomandati?
Uz all-around.

(31-12-2019, 11:02)korbus Wrote: @KrisssKros

Am si eu doua intrebari de (complet) amator: 1. cand spui de cutit de carne, te referi la slicing sau carving knife? si 2. setul de aici e OK pentru un starter kit (inclusiv la pret)?
Multumesc anticipat!